Stands and Blocks
Sm Wave Design
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STANDS AND BLOCKS
Before shaping, surfboard stands are needed (see figures 5,6,7,8,).
If something similar to the figures is not made, regret is the likely
result. I recommend the stands in Figure 6 (the buckets
can be moved and re-leveled anywhere and the blank can be placed
rail up). The stands in Figure 8 are easier to make, and still allow
for rail up work. It will help greatly to be able to move the blank
outside. Keep the pipe foam shown in the figures wrapped with
masking tape (black pipe foam will stain white blank foam and glass
job). Note that 1/2" pipe foam refers to the foam thickness,
not the diameter of the pipe it is made for. Buy foam that
is made for at least 1" pipe. Level the racks periodically
by putting the torpedo level across the tops. Figure 6 can
be made stiffer by wedging scrap surfboard foam, wood or, bricks
between the stand wood and the side of the bucket. Note: If you
think that building racks is too much trouble, and you have not
bought any materials, you should stop the surfboard project now.
Most of the time and money spent now will not have to be repeated
on following boards. Most of the stand and block materials
can be found in construction site trash piles. Even if a
power sander or power planer is available, the following blocks
or something very similar will be needed.
See www.harborfreight.com for inexpensive tools. Even though it is possible to make a
good surfboard with no power tools, I recommend you at least have
a drill, preferably with 2 handles (screw on side handle), with
variable speed between 2000 and 3000 rpm.
Make 1-10"x4.5"x1" wood block and screw #16 floor
sanding paper to it as shown in Figure 9. #12,or #16,or #20
is available at many floor sanding machine rental companies. Many
of the processes that follow assume you have #16 grit). If you have
to choose between #12 and #20 get the #12. It will make it much
easier to get the crust off the blank. Another alternative
is to order 1-9" #16 sanding disk from www.fiberglasssupply.com and screw it to an 8" block in
place of the 10" above.
Also make 1-10"x3.5"x1" wood block and cover as
in Figure 9 with #50 Belt sanding paper etc.
Finally make 1-26"x3.5"x1" wood block and cover
as in Figure 9 with #50 belt sanding paper etc It is
especially important that this block be very straight and flat (not
warped). These sizes don't have to be exact but try to use the listed
Figure 6 Note: 3&7/8" gap above is
foam to foam. Wood to wood is 4&7/8". A 2x4
is actually 1&5/8" thick. Stands are 5 - 2x4's wide
at widest point. The gap can be adjusted for thin blanks by
using another layer of foam, or using 2 - 1" x 4" spacers
in place of the 2 - 2" x 4". Do not try to screw
through two or three 2x4's - screw them one at a time, or drill
Figure 7 Note: This stand works better if you
leave the lid off the top bucket and wrap pipe foam completely around
the top edge. Cut 3" wide (adjust for your board
thickness) and 7" long slits longwise from top edge to center
of bucket (round the corners, and the bottom). These slits
and the top of the bucket can be covered with one continuous piece
of pipe foam taped in place. Tape two extra layers of pipe
foam over the bottom of each bucket cut to prevent denting the blank
edge. Put sand etc. in the bottom of the bucket.
This will allow the board to be placed rail up for sanding etc.
If the floor or ground that the buckets are sitting on is not level,
level the buckets by simply wedging something underneath the buckets
(cardboard etc.). See Figure 8.