Stands and Blocks
Sm Wave Design
This is your site. It is not biased
by any direct advertising and no money is accepted for any links shown.
It is made for you and supported by you.
HALL OF FAME
Thanks to the users below
for keeping this site alive and unbiased with their donations.
It is better to sand too little than sand too much.
Assuming no power sander, put a 5" rubber backing pad and
#50 sanding disk(s) on the drill (if you put multiple sanding disks
on the pad it will sand smoother). It would be preferable
that the drill have two handles, a maximum rpm range of 2000 to
3000 and, variable speed. You will be able to find one for
less than $30 - (2008) if you will accept an "off" brand.
Put on your respirator with a dust cartridge. If you
can't get a respirator at least wear a dust mask and take everything
outside in the wind or use a fan.
Completely cover your body, including your head. If you won't
do this get some baby powder and work it in to all your exposed
skin. If the sanding dust gets into the pores of your skin
you will likely itch for days!
Go very slowly at first, constantly moving and barely touching
the board surface. Keep the sanding disk flat most of the
time. In places where the disk can not kept flat, it is better
to hand sand. The relatively low speed of the drill should
prevent any big mistakes. Stay away from the rails.
It is safer to hand sand the rails (including the cloth overlaps)
and any curved areas. Do not learn the hard way (as so many of us
have) and power sand through your cloth As you get the feel
for it try allowing the weight of the sander to bear down on the
surface, still constantly moving (you should not need to push down
Once again ; do not power sand the rails. Hand sanding
only, on the rails, take down any drips and excess with a surform
file, and #16, or #20 sandpaper. The resin line left around
the circumference of the rail when the tape was removed can be mostly
removed by dragging a lone razor blade repeatedly over the resin
line. This razor blade work and all sanding will be easier if you
do it when the resin is newly hardened (as soon as it clicks when
hit with your nails). Finish sanding the rails by hand with #50.
Although hand sanding is brutally hard work, an entire surfboard
can be done with no power tools. If hand sanding only (no
power tools), sand the flats, starting with #16, and ending with
#50. The photo below shows sanding the lap line before hotcoating
using duct tape along the foam side of the lap line to prevent sanding
the foam (highly recommended).
Keep blowing or brushing off the dust and looking closely at the
glass. If a small checkerboard pattern becomes visible, don't
sand any deeper there (you're seeing the cloth-try not to sand to
the cloth). On inspection; low spots may be seen that
can not be sanded with the drill sander without penetrating
the cloth on nearby high spots. Lightly hand sand these
low spots using your finger tips if needed. Try to simply
remove all the shine from the entire surface. Just get the bottom
smooth and completely sanded, then stop. It is better to sand
too little than too much. Just make sure to get all the shine
off the surface.
Sand the top like the bottom. The top doesn't need to be
as smooth as the bottom. If you intend to apply the #16 sanded
traction surface mentioned in HOT COAT and GLOSS COAT, do not sand
the top hot coat.
Take the board out in bright sunlight if possible and look for
shiny spots on the top and bottom. These shiny spots may have
wax on the surface (polyester only). The gloss coat will look
wavy etc., if you leave them
It is better to sand too little than to sand too much.